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The following are just a few of the
occasional invaders that look for a new place to hide in your home.
Don't let it happen to you! These pests can carry bacteria and disease
and are a health hazard as well as being unsettling. Targeted
treatments, including baits, traps, and sprays eliminate your
problems, and improve your peace of mind. Let
PEST
ARRESTERS
solve your pest problem today!
Cockroaches
are one of the most
hated insects, especially when they are found inside homes. There are
several different kinds of cockroaches including:
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German - Found
throughout the world; commonly found in restaurants, kitchens and
stores where food and moisture are abundant; contaminate food, leave
stains, create foul odors and carry disease organisms.
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Smokey Brown -
(Commonly mistaken for waterbugs)
Typically brownish black and very shiny. They fly and are attracted
to lights at night; has the reputation of being the most difficult
to control because it is so active and has many habitat preferences.
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Oriental - Also
known as black beetles; more sluggish than other species; give off
distinctive unpleasant odor.
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American - Also
mistaken for a water bug, the largest house-infesting species,
about one and one-half inches long; reddish-brown wings with
light markings on thorax.
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Brown Banded -
Easily recognized by alternating light and dark bands across its
back; doesn't multiply as fast as the German, but it is considered
harder to control; often found high on walls in picture frames,
behind molding, near appliance motors, in light switches, closets
and furniture.
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Fleas
Small, hard-bodied
wingless insects with a
flattened body and legs adapted for jumping on to a host. Humans are
often attacked when other food sources aren't available. Their bite
leaves a red, itchy spot on the skin. Their saliva is irritating to
the host, causing dermatitis and hair loss in allergic animals.
If you have fleas,
you need to use the 3-zone defense:
- Inside
- Outside
- On the Pet
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Control begins
with treatment to all infested areas
with a residual pesticide that includes a growth regulator inside
the home and a complete lawn treatment outside. Generally, lawn
treatments done early enough in the season are enough as long as
control continues on the inside of the home. The pet should be
treated regularly either with powders, sprays or a treatment
recommended by your vet. While "dips" are effective for overall
treatment at once, maintaining a constant control on the pet is
best. Pick up all items off the floor. Remove items from under beds
and furniture and the bottom of closets. Wash or replace pet
bedding. Vacuum thoroughly throughout the house. Wood, tile and
linoleum floors should be thoroughly swept and mopped. Concrete
floors in a garage or basement, where pets may stay, need to be
cleaned. Remove all pets including birds. Fish tanks should be
covered with a damp towel and the air pump turned off and covered.
Treat pets Shampoo, then use drops, dogs only. Remain out of the
house for at least three hours. Outdoors, wash or remove any pet
bedding and make all shade areas, crawl spaces, etc., available for
treatment.
Ants
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- Carpenter Ants - Usually nest outdoors in
stumps and logs in contact with the soil and in dead tree limbs and
cavities or in homes in wood damaged by termites, fungi and
moisture. They don't actually eat wood - though the galleries they
excavate can be quite extensive.
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- Pharaoh - Small red to yellowish ants that
can nest in wall voids, cabinets, boxes of food and any other
accessible crevices and spaces and are even known to invade sick
rooms and feed on blood plasma and wound dressings.
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- Thief Ants - Tiny ants that sometimes go
undetected for weeks. They earn their title by feeding off the
larvae of other ant species. Commonly seen around the kitchen sink
or pantry, they go for cheeses, greasy foods, meats and sometimes
sweets.
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- Argentine Ants - Among the many species
who like honey, syrups and jellies, they are also meat eaters and
outside they can severely damage orchard crops.
MORE INFORMATION HERE.
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- Red Imported Fire Ant - Usually a reddish
brown color, fire ants live in colonies of up to 200,000 individuals
with mounds that can be two feet high and three feet across with as
many as 50 colonies per acre. It's painful, burning sting results in
pustules that take up to 10 days to heal. Some people are extremely
allergic to the sting, needing fast medical attention to deal with
the toxin. It usually takes ants years just to get firmly
established. But once that's accomplished, some colonies can survive
for as long as 30 or 40 years. Sometimes the original queen will be
replaced many times over.
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There are measures you can take to minimize
the likelihood of an ant invasion in the kitchen; wiping up spills
and putting food away immediately in sealed containers helps.
Keeping your home dry and well ventilated will discourage
dreaded Carpenter Ants from entering. When ants do get in,
insecticides applied along baseboards or around foundations can
provide some temporary relief. But ants seldom carry enough
insecticide back to the nest to kill the queen... so the nest must
be located and the colony destroyed. The
professionals at PEST ARRESTERS
know where to look and how to fight with the best products available
on the market.
Rats and mice are the most abundant and
therefore the more annoying and destructive of all rodents the
homeowner or business owner may encounter. Throughout history, they
have been responsible for more human illnesses and deaths than any
other mammals. The most common are the Norway Rat, the
Roof Rat and the House Mouse.
- Norway Rats prefer the outdoors and burrow
in the ground under foundations and in trash dumps. Inside they live
between floors and walls and enclosed places out of sight.
- The Roof Rat is smaller than the Norway
and seems to prefer above-ground dwellings, in attics, between walls
or outdoors in trees and vines.
- The House Mouse, the smallest of the household
rodents, is gray and has a long tail. They live in any
convenient, protected space.
Controlling rodent infestations is mostly
due to the common sense elimination of their food, water and
harboring sources. Elimination of whatever possible that makes them
happy is always the first step and should be addressed at the first
signs of their presence. Beyond that, baiting and/or trapping would
be next. Baiting is the first choice as it is effective in most
cases and is the simplest solution. Trapping requires much
maintenance and constant monitoring and of course, disposal of the
trapped rodents.
Centipedes
Centipedes are sometimes called "hundred-leggers"
because of their many pairs of legs. They are long elongate,
flattened, and wormlike, usually yellowish to dark brown, sometimes
with darker stripes or markings, with 15 to 177 pairs of legs - 1
pair per segment. Even though centipedes are predaceous and
therefore beneficial, most people consider them a nuisance pest.
Some species can inflict a painful bite, but it is not lethal. All
centipedes have poison jaws with which they inject venom to kill
their prey. If handled roughly, some of the larger species can break
the human skin, resulting in a bite which causes some pain and
swelling, something like a bee sting. However, the large Scolopendra
can inflict a very painful bite and should be handled with great
care. Centipedes are typically found in areas of high moisture such
as loose bark, in rotting logs, under stones, trash, piles of leaves
and grass clippings, flower-bed mulch, etc., where their typical
prey is found. Although they may be found anywhere in a house, usual
places are damp basements, bathrooms, damp closets, and potted
plants. Eliminating moisture areas is the key method of prevention.
Remove leaves, grass clippings, logs, stones and rocks from around
foundation Provide adequate ventilation in crawl spaces De-humidify
basements Vacuum living quarters frequently, especially around
baseboards and cracks and crevices areas, behind kitchen appliances.
Millipedes
Millipedes are sometimes called "thousand-leggers,"
but they usually have 30-90+ pairs of legs, usually blackish or
brownish but some red, orange, or with mottled patterns. Members of
several millipede groups give off an ill-smelling, repugnant fluid
through openings along the sides of the body. In some species, this
fluid contains hydrocyanic acid, iodine, and quinone, which is toxic
to some arthropods and small animals. It can cause vesicular
dermatitis (small blisters) in humans. They are typically found in
areas of high moisture and decaying vegetation such as under trash,
piles of grass clippings, flower-bed mulches, leaf litter, etc. As
with other occasional invaders, reduction of moisture areas inside
and outside will help discourage millipedes from moving in. Mow the
lawn closely and edge it to promote quicker drying Remove debris
such as leaves, rotting vegetation, heavy mulch, wood, rocks from
around foundation Store firewood up off the ground away from the
house Ventilate crawl spaces and basements to reduce sheltered
hiding places Water lawns early in the morning to allow the grass
time to dry during the day Millipedes within the home can be easily
vacuumed up and the vacuum bag discarded.
Amazingly, the average homeowner's insurance
does not cover the threat of termites though termites strike more
American structures than fire and cost Americans about 1.1 billion
dollars a year! On the average, there could be as many as 13 to 14
subterranean termite colonies per acre, which means that a typical
home may easily have three to four colonies (with as many as
1million per colony) situated under or around it. Since foundations
are usually built above the water table, and below the frost line,
near where termites live, your home is naturally close to termite
colonies. Ironically, concrete slab and basement foundations are
some of the most susceptible types of construction.
Termites only need a crack of one-sixty-fourth
inch in a slab floor to gain entrance into your home and once
there, they can infest virtually any part of your home -- wood trim,
wallboard, siding, even picture frames. Once termites discover a
food source, they leave a chemical trail for others to follow.
Worker termites bring food to the colony
through tunnels without ever resting. Termites need moisture to
survive (this fact makes areas like basements and crawl spaces very
attractive to them and can serve as starting points for
infestation.).
Termites Are Often Confused With Ants. Here
is the basic difference: Termite Swarmers
have a broad waist, their antennae are not elbowed and both wings
are the same size with many veins.
Ant Swarmers have a thin, pinched waist, their antennae are
elbowed and the hind wings are smaller than the front wings.

Some of the common signs of a termite
infestation include mud tunnels along the foundation of the house
inside or out, wings or sawdust near windows, doors or in the
garage, tiny holes on wood., flying or "swarming" termites in the
house, especially near light sources.
Call PEST ARRESTERS and set up an appointment to have your house
thoroughly inspected by one of our pest control professionals who
are trained to detect the sometimes-subtle signs of termites.
Click here to contact us!
Powder-Post Beetles
more info
Powder post beetles are so called because in
high numbers they are able to turn the inside of a piece of wood into
nothing more than a mass of powder. They can do significant
damage to log homes, furniture, wood floors and structural timbers.
Powder post beetles are small(1/8 inch) and the adult beetles are
seldom seen. Most of the life cycle is spent in the grub stage
eating wood. This stage can last between 1-10 years depending
upon a number of factors including; species of beetle, type of
wood infested, age of wood, moisture content of wood and air
temperature. People do not realize that the wood is infested
until the adult beetles emerge from within the wood. The exit
holes are very small, about the size of a pin head. When the
wood is tapped with a hammer dust will fall from these exit holes.
Depending on the species powder post beetles can infest hardwoods such
as cherry and oak, or softwoods such as poplar, pine and bamboo.
If you find a beetle infestation in a piece of oak furniture this same
species of beetle would not infest your pine floor but might infest
other pieces of your oak furniture.
Spiders
Black Widow Spider
- Glossy black with a red hourglass marking
on the underside of its abdomen, it makes a strong, sticky irregular
web in protected areas where prey is likely to wander in and be
trapped. Foundations, vents, shrubs and woodpiles at ground level
are common habitats.
- Their highly poisonous venom can cause
concern for small children and older or infirm persons. Medical
attention should be sought if bitten. Some trap their prey in webs
or snares; others are active hunters that use excellent vision to
stalk or ambush their food. Virtually all spiders have poison glands
that connect with the fangs. Venom produced by the glands apparently
is used to kill or paralyze prey and in defense. Only a few species,
such as the black widow and the brown recluse, have venom that is
very toxic or harmful to humans.
Brown Recluse Spider
- A brownish spider with distinguishing
characteristics of the presence of three pairs of eyes arranged
in a semicircle on the forepart of the head and a violin-shaped,
dark marking immediately behind the semicircle of eyes with the neck
of the violin pointing towards the bulbous abdomen. This
violin-shaped marking has earned it the name "fiddle-backed"
spider.
- It is found in undisturbed areas such as
sheds, garages and dark closets. Garments left hanging for some time
are favorite spots. The brown recluse spider is not aggressive and
normally bites only when crushed, handled or disturbed.
- Their bite causes a severe systemic reaction
and an ulcerous sore, which requires extensive medical attention.
Fatalities are rare, but bites are most dangerous to children,
elderly and those in poor physical condition.
Most species do not attempt to bite; many
have fangs that are not capable of piercing the skin. However, some
will, with results that are similar to a wasp or bee sting. There is
the chance that a person can have an allergic reaction to the venom.
First Aid if bitten:
remain calm, collect the spider, if possible, for positive
identification and get medical attention immediately (contact your
physician, hospital and/or Poison Information Center & apply
antiseptic solution to prevent infection and ice packs to relieve
local swelling and pain directly to the bite area.)
Steps to prevent encounters with spiders:
- Shake out clothing and shoes before dressing,
and inspect bedding and towels before using.
- Do not go barefoot or handle firewood without
gloves.
- Remove piles of trash; eliminate cluttered
areas in basements, closets, attics and other outbuildings.
- Dust and vacuum thoroughly and more in
normally undisturbed places.
Box Elder Bugs
Adult
box elder bugs are about ½ inch long, dull
black with red markings along the front edges of their wings.
They are predominantly attracted to the
female Box elder tree, also called an Ash-leaved maple, Acer Negundo.
Female box elder trees can be identified by their winged seed pods.
The box elder tree is their food source and that explains the
attraction to it.
During spring, box elder bug adults and nymphs
can be seen emerging from hibernation sites, flying to a box elder
tree or gathering on the sides of buildings. At this time the
overall size of box elder bug infestations on trees and buildings
can be considerable smaller (differing as much as tenfold) than box
elder bug infestations in the fall. Female box elder bugs emerging
from hibernation begin to lay eggs in April and May.
The temperature of surfaces found around
buildings can contribute to infestations of adult box elder bugs in
the spring and fall. Research data, obtained by measuring the body
temperature of box elder bugs and the temperature of different
surfaces, shows that box elder bugs prefer surfaces with
temperatures that are much higher than a box elder bugs normal body
temperatures.
Several cold nights followed by an Indian
summer cause box elder bugs to begin
congregating on homes as they search for where to spend the winter.
In the fall there is an increase in the
number of box elder bugs on host trees, and this increase is
associated with development of the ovules on female box elder and
maple trees. There are much fewer box elder bugs around buildings in
the fall; most are found on trees. Adult box elder bugs move to
overwintering sites during October. Although the same overwintering
sites are not usually used by box elder bugs every year, there are
some that are frequented on a regular basis.
Box elder bugs travel short or long
distances (as much as two miles) from a box elder tree to a
favorable hibernation site. Box elder bugs spend the winter in leaf
litter next to buildings, under bark in protected areas or in other
spaces in which large numbers of box elder bugs can gather for a few
months.
Normally October is the month
in which box elder bugs become a pest. Box elder bugs begin to mass
in large numbers on Box elder tree trunks to prepare to overwinter.
From the tree the box elder bugs move to wood and rock piles, fallen
leaves, and the cracks and crevices of buildings. They are
especially attracted to the sunny side of light colored homes. Box
elder bugs creep into siding, window and door frames, porches, and
cracks in masonry. Box elder bugs do not bite, reproduce indoors,
cause any structural damage, or cause health problems to humans or
pets. Smashing box elder bugs can stain fabrics and wallpaper. Box
elder bugs are merely a nuisance. Moderate daytime temperatures are
confusing to box elder bugs; it is normal to have a recurrence of
the box elder bugs in the middle of winter when it is mild. Box
elder Bugs come out of hiding and become active because it is so
warm during the day, it seems like spring to them. As long as it is
mild box elder bugs will congregate on Box elder trees and light
colored homes.
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